When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
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